If you have ever walked through the cobblestone streets of Old Town after the sun goes down, you know that smell. It is a mix of steaming corn, savory spices, and something just a little bit magical. That is the scent of a fresh tamale waiting for you.
We have lived here long enough to know that the best food in Puerto Vallarta does not always come from a building with a roof. Sometimes, the absolute best meals come from a small plastic table on a corner. We LOVE the street food scene here, and tamales are the undisputed kings of the night.
If you are a solo traveler or even if you are here with a big group, hunting for the perfect tamale is like a local rite of passage. It is simple, it is cheap, and it is SOOO delicious.
The Midnight Magic at Basilio Badillo
Our first stop is always the corner of Basilio Badillo and Insurgentes. This is right by the Boca de Tomatlan bus stop. You will see a small crowd gathered around a woman with a massive metal pot.
She usually shows up around 5:30 PM. But if you want the good stuff, you better get there early. We have seen her sell out in just a couple of hours because everyone knows she has the best masa in town.
Her chicken tamales with green salsa are AMAZING. The chicken is always tender, and the salsa has just enough kick to wake up your taste buds without ruining your night. We always grab two or three because one is never enough.
Why Old Town is the Place to Be
Old Town, which some people call Zona Romantica, is the heart of the street food world. It is the same neighborhood with two different names, but the soul is the same. We love how you can walk two blocks and find three different vendors, each with their own secret recipe.
The street food here is a symphony of flavors. You hear the steam whistling, you see the colorful lights of the nearby shops, and you feel the warm breeze. It is why so many people look for rentals in puerto vallarta right in this area. You want to be where the food is!
But if you are still trying to figure out where to stay, you might want to check out our guide to finding the right place to get a better idea of what to look for.
The Pollo Feliz Stand
Another local favorite of ours is the stand right in front of Pollo Feliz. It is another evening-only spot. What we love about this one is the variety. Sometimes they have tamales de rajas (strips of pepper and cheese) that are so creamy they basically melt.
The vibe here is great too. You will see locals stopping by on their way home from work and tourists who stumbled upon it by accident. Everyone is just happy to be eating something hot and fresh.
If you like corn, you can also grab an elote (corn on the cob) or an esquite (corn in a cup) right at the same spot. It is the ultimate street food combo.
Why We Always Recommend Amapas
While Old Town is great for eating, we think Amapas is the best place to rent a condo. It is just a tiny bit up the hill from Zona Romantica, so you get the best views without all the noise of the bars.
Amapas feels a bit more private, but it is still just a five-minute walk to all these amazing tamale stands. It is the perfect balance. You can spend your day exploring how we find local secrets and then head back to your quiet condo to relax.
The condos in Amapas are modern and have that cool Mexican vibe we all love. When you are looking at rentals puerto vallarta, definitely put Amapas at the top of your list. You will thank us later when you are sitting on your balcony watching the sunset.
What to Look for in a Great Tamale
If you are new to the tamale game, here are a few tips from our experience:
- The Steam Factor: If the pot isn't steaming, keep walking. You want them hot!
- The Wrap: Most tamales here are wrapped in corn husks (oaxaqueños are wrapped in banana leaves). Both are great, but the corn husk ones are more common on the street corners.
- The Squeeze: A good tamale should be firm but soft. If it’s mushy, it might be undercooked.
- The Crowd: If there is a line, get in it. Locals don't wait in line for bad food.
We always suggest carrying a bit of cash. These stands don't take cards, and it’s much easier to have small bills.
Making the Most of Your Stay
Staying in a condo gives you so much more freedom than a hotel. You can buy a half-dozen tamales, take them back to your place, and have a feast on your own terrace. It is the best way to experience the "real" Puerto Vallarta.
We have stayed in many places over the years, but nothing beats having your own kitchen and a comfortable living room to unwind in. It makes the whole vacation feel more authentic.
Whether you are here for a week or a month, eating like a local is the best part of the trip. The tamale stands are just the beginning of what you can discover if you are willing to walk around and try new things.
Final Thoughts
Puerto Vallarta is a city that truly comes alive at night through its food. The tamale stands in Old Town and the surrounding areas are more than just places to get a quick bite; they are part of the community.
We highly recommend spending at least one evening just "tamale hopping." Start at Basilio Badillo, walk down to the Pollo Feliz stand, and see what else you find along the way. You won't regret it!
Don't forget to follow us on Facebook for more updates on the best local eats and travel tips!
About the Author
