I have lived in and out of Puerto Vallarta for years now, and if there is one thing I have learned, it is that the real magic isn’t always on the main boardwalk.
Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the Malecón! It is beautiful and fun.
But if you want to experience the soul of this city, you have to go where we go. You have to eat where we eat and play where we play!
I get asked all the time about the best spots that aren't filled with tourists. People want the "real" Mexico.
So, I decided to put together this little guide for you. Whether you are a solo traveler or bringing the whole family, these are the spots that make me smile every single time.
The Best Way to Start Your Trip
Before we dive into the food, let’s talk about where you are going to put your bags.
When you are looking for puerto vallarta rentals old town, you really want to be close to the action but away from the noise.
Old Town, which is also known as Zona Romantica, is definitely the heart of everything. It is where the cobblestones meet the beach and the vibes are always high.
But if I am being totally honest with you, I think the Amapas area is the BEST place to rent.
It is just a tiny bit up the hill from the main part of Old Town, which means you get these AMAZING views of the ocean without all the late-night street noise.
AMAZING views are everything when you are on vacation, right??
Where the Locals Actually Eat
If you want to eat like a local, you have to leave the fancy beach clubs for a night.
My first secret spot is a neighborhood called Pitillal. It is about a 15-minute taxi ride from the center, and it is where real life happens.
I highly recommend going there for the carnitas! You will find tiny stands where the meat is so tender it literally melts.
But if you want to stay closer to your condo, you have to head to the Cuale Municipal Market.
Most people just walk past the market on their way to the beach, but that is a huge mistake!
Go to the second floor. That is where the "fondas" are. These are small, family-owned restaurants that have been there for 30 or 40 years.
You can get a massive bowl of pozole or fresh ceviche for almost nothing. It is authentic, it is clean, and it is SOOO delicious!
I always feel so much gratitude for the ladies who run these stalls. They treat you like family the second you sit down.
If you are looking for zona romantica puerto vallarta rentals, you are probably only a five-minute walk from this market!
And if you want more booking tips, read The PVGirl's Guide to Renting Apartments in Old Town.
You can also browse puerto vallarta condo rentals if you want a great spot close to everything.
Spending a Day Like a Local
So, where do we go when we aren't working?
Most locals actually avoid the main beach during the middle of the day because it gets so hot.
Instead, we head to the Rio Cuale. There is a little island in the middle of the river with shaded walkways and giant iguanas hanging in the trees!
It is much cooler there because of the water and the trees. It’s the perfect place to hide out with a book or just wander through the artisan shops.
If you are feeling adventurous, you should take a water taxi from the pier to a "secret" beach like Quimixto or Yelapa.
But honestly, sometimes the best way to play is just to stay local.
I love walking the stairs in Amapas. It is a great workout and the houses there are so beautiful.
Amapas is so peaceful and lush. It feels like you are in the middle of the jungle even though you are just minutes from the best restaurants.
For anyone looking for condo rentals, I always say Amapas is the winner for the best atmosphere.
The Saturday Morning Ritual
If you are lucky enough to be here on a Saturday, you cannot miss the Olas Altas Farmers Market.
It is right in the Zona Romantica. It is where all the local producers bring their fresh bread, organic coffee, and handmade jewelry.
I usually grab a big bag of passion fruit and some artisanal cheese to take back to the condo.
It is a great place to people-watch and just soak up the energy of the neighborhood.
If you want more ideas for your weekend, read Puerto Vallarta Rentals by Owner Secrets.
Why We Love Amapas So Much
I know I keep mentioning it, but I really want you to have the best trip possible.
Old Town is wonderful, but Amapas is special.
When you stay in Amapas, you are tucked away in the trees. You wake up to the sound of tropical birds instead of buses.
And the views… oh my god, the views!
Looking out over Banderas Bay from an Amapas balcony is something you will never forget.
It is the perfect balance of being close to the fun while still having your own private sanctuary.
If you are a solo traveler, it feels very safe and tucked away. If you are a couple, it is incredibly romantic.
A Few More Local Tips
Before I go, I have to give you a few more quick secrets:
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The Sunset at the Pier: Don't just look at the pier from a distance. Walk all the way to the end at sunset. The lights turn on and it is magical.
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The Coffee: Skip the big chains. Go to the tiny hole-in-the-wall cafes in the back streets of Old Town. The coffee is grown right here in the mountains!
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The Taxis: Always ask for the price before you get in. Or better yet, just walk! PV is a very walkable city if you have comfortable shoes.
Final Recommendation
Puerto Vallarta is a place that stays in your heart forever.
The people are kind, the food is incredible, and the weather is perfect.
If you are planning a trip, I highly recommend staying in the Amapas or Old Town area. You just can't beat the location.
But best of all, you get to live like a local for a week or two!
We would LOVE to have you come visit us. There is nothing like a sunset in PV to make all your worries disappear.
Safe travels and I hope to see you on the cobblestone streets soon!
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